The classic preparation of this dish—the beef is grilled on special metal skewers with eyelets at the end, then brought to the table and hung with great ceremony from an L-shaped pole, over a bowl piled with Portuguese bread. The meat juices from the kebabs drip onto the bread, which is thought of as much a delicacy as the meat. Unless you are a skilled welder, you will not be able to duplicate this arrangement at home. Solution—serve the kebabs on a platter lined with sliced Portuguese bread. Steven Raichlen.